Transflores: On a motorbike across Flores, one way
Flores is not only the gateway to Komodo but in itself, it is a beautiful island rich in culture and full of amazing people. It is definitely worth exploring and best on a motorbike!
But, it is not (yet) Bali in terms of preparedness for the tourists and therefore some planning might be very helpful and possibly save you lots of money. For example, in high season (July and August), demand for good accommodation exceeds the supply and you might end up staying in not an ideal place. Some hotels can be ridiculously expensive.
A motorbike or a scooter is definitely the best way to explore any place in South East Asia and Flores is not an exception. You can cross Flores on Transflores highway in a couple of days and see so much more than having a “guide” to drive you around. I would recommend it even if you are not an avid biker because the roads are rather easy-going and traffic is reasonable.
Flores on a motorbike in 6 tips
Tip #1: Fly to either Maumere and from Labuan Bajo or to Labuan Bajo and from Maumere. There are many flights from Bali, for example. You can buy this ticket last minute as the price tends not to increase much.
(I wish someone told me this before I booked my flights!)
Tip #2: 6 days for the trip from Maumere to Labuan Bajo (or another way) is ideal giving you enough of time to chill but you will not get bored.
Tip #3: You will not find one-way rental online but local rentals happily arrange to send the motorbike back. I was quoted prices around 1.000.000 IDR + 75.000 IDR per day rental. Lena house near Maumere has set up one-way service offering foreigners starting from Labuan Bajo to drive the scooters back to Maumere (contact Marius in Labuan Bajo, and Lena house in Maumere; better a week earlier). This is cheaper: 400.000 IDR + 100.000 IDR per day rental with a minimum of 6 days rent.
Tip #4: It is curvy up and down. I would recommend one person per bike and getting something stronger than 125cc. I was riding Honda Vario 150cc and it was just perfect. You will be faster than most of the locals on small scooters.
Tip #5: Most hotels are on booking.com. If you don’t want to book ahead, stay outside of bigger towns like Ruteng or Bajawa. Try homestays, I always found a free bed in a random village on the way. I generally paid from 150.000 IDR for a simple room up to 400.000 IDR for an amazing hut. Generally, service is great and breakfast is included.
Tip #6: I recommend going during the dry season between April and September. During the dry season, while there is very little rain driving in the hills can be chilly, particularly at the end of the day. Make sure you have a good pullover and long pants. Also, locals are incredibly cold-proof and you will get very thin blankets so beware and prepare good pajama :).